Dressmaking tips for beginners, I will answer some of the most common questions people ask me. And you know what? my biggest tip… “Get started!” But apart from “just” getting started, I have made a little list here, in no particular order. These things I barely think of as they become 2nd nature after a while, but for a beginner, they would not be part of their DNA….yet.
I think we as adults can procrastinate and think we need the perfect conditions to get started, but guess what, those do not exist so just get on with it and get started, you will learn from that.
- When you cut your pattern pieces, ensure you accurately have the correct seam allowance on all pieces. Sometimes that is included on the pattern, (it would say on the pattern) often you have to add it on, mark it accurately around all pattern pieces and cut accurately
- When you sew, use the guide to measure the seam allowance, (from the needle to the guide should be the same as you cut, I always use 1.5 cm)
- If you need to sew a long straight piece with a wider seam allowance than the guide, measure out correctly from the needle and place a straight piece of cello tape so you can use that as a guide.
- When you start sewing, always hold the threads for the first couple of stitches when starting to sew. This way the threads will not get pulled down and into the bobbin case and cause knots.
- Trim your threads as you go.
- Buy really good straight pins, I look for the longest and thinnest. I don’t like the ones with the coloured bead top, but that is a matter of preference.
- Keep your good scissors to fabrics and do not use them in paper or any metal or sequins, that will make them bland. (tell this to your family or hide them away)
- I like to have different ways to measure. a seam gauge (a ruler), a ruler see through, a measuring tape,
- You need a way to mark your fabrics. I usually use white chalk. There are so many options, but I a pretty old school, this is the cheapest and does the job.
- When cutting out projects, make sure you cut all the notches this will help you sew correctly as you can match them up all along, if they don’t match… you are doing something wrong.
- Buy quality threads, and match them to the fabric, the normal rule is one shade darker than the fabric.
- Put the spool on the machine so the thread comes from the back of the spool, and the thread will feed with the twist the manufacturer put in it.
- Pin every 3 fingers apart, and pin at all notch places, Any less you will not have the layers moving together well. The bulk of your pinned units should lay to the left if the sewing machine needle.
- Don’t sew over straight pins with knit or delicate fabrics, best to always avoid this, but in heavier fabrics, you can sew over pins if you are not going too fast.
- Sewing machine needles come in different sizes. Make sure it’s the right needle for your machine generally domestic needles work across different brands.
- Use 70- 80 for thin fabrics. 90 – for medium-weight fabrics. 100- 110 for denim or heavy-weight fabrics. There are special needles for knit fabrics. That is a jersey needle or ball-point.
- Learn not to turn your sewing machine flywheel backwards.
- Use metal bobbins over plastic ones. They will perform better & with less frustration.
- Backstitch at the beginning & ends of seams so they do not unravel. 3- 5 backstitches are all you need.
- Sewing machine stitch length. The longest stitch is for home dec sewing, basting, & gathering. The next setting down from basting is probably where you will want to do most sewing. Tinier stitches are harder to rip out & pucker seams.
- When ripping out, the back side of the seam will be looser than the top, therefore easier to pick out. Take care that you do not put holes in your fabric. We all do our share of ripping out…be patient with yourself.
- If you press the seams open, it’s a good idea to press them together first, then open them.
- Press seams open or to one side from the back & the front. If you are pressing solid dark fabrics, you need to press them from the wrong side, then with a pressing cloth over them from the front or you will add shine & even an iron sole plate imprinted in them.
- Always check the iron on the fabric before on a scrap piece, to make sure you have the right setting and that the iron doesn’t mark
- Make sure the sole of your iron is always clean. You should be using interlining and this glue can get on the iron, be careful with this and clean it off
- Follow the instructions on your pattern regarding interlining, this can be a make or break for a garment.
Dressmaking mindset tips for beginners
More tips for Dressmakers in the beginning.
The list above is all about practical things. my next list is about the mindset.
The biggest obstacle I hear about is the “I don’t have time”. If dressmaking is what you would like to do, make time!! You don’t need to create a time machine but schedule your dressmaking times. Make it a regular appointment. Make sure you don’t have any other tasks that eat into your time. I think we are all guilty of prioritising ourselves as the lowest in the pecking order, But time for ourselves is important. Self-care in terms of dressmaking is valuable for our well-being. Time to learn new things, away from emails and to-do lists.
What is my dressmaking why?
Consider your why…Why would you like to learn dressmaking? These are all valid reasons, but what would be your reason? I would love for you to hit reply and tell me.
-learn new skills
-get a fashionable wardrobe
-develop your style
-Have clothes that fit your style and shape.
-save money
-have clothes made from deadstock, which is better for the environment
-clothes with no human slavery involved
-garments made in nice colours I picked to suit me
-clothes in nice fabrics I have chosen for myself
All of these are great and valid reasons, and if they mean enough to you, you will allocate time to work on your clothes. The secret is to make a date with yourself and put it in the diary. Perhaps your dress time is Wednesday night or every 2nd Saturday. You must pick the time and not let other stuff take over. Wake up in the morning and look forward to your dressmaking time.
Do you have anything to add to this list? I would love to know. Do you know I offer a dressmaking course? you can read more about it here
Online Course Sign Up – Freja Designer Dressmaking
photo credit to @falconviewphotography
